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Jake,

What chambray shirt are you wearing in the photo of yourself in the upper-left corner of the blog?

The chambray I'm wearing is Ralph Lauren from a few seasons back...

Apologies ahead of time if this post comes off as self-indulgent or masturbatory. I don't usually photograph my own clothing. In fact I felt kind of weird doing it. My whole point is that you don't have to buy a label or buy from the "coolest" boutique to be stylish. I know that sounds hypocritical with the aforementioned information about my shirt... But my girlfriend designs for RL... So you get the idea...

Money doesn't buy you style.

I love that chambray shirt. I think J.Crew did a terrific job and it's been a staple of theirs for a few years now. The fabric is great and the details are amazing.

It has a more tailored, slim fit and is a little longer, which is great for the taller guys who want to tuck it in. I personally like a shorter, boxier fit but I'm a 38s.

I have two chambray shirts, and honestly I'd wear them every day but my other shirts tend to get jealous when that happens.

There's not a pair of pants I have that don't make sense with 'em.


Steve Mcqueen is wearing a denim shirt NOT a chambray shirt in that photo.

wow, that koto shirt is hot shit, Urban Outfitters... who knew! I guess lot of the reason people buy expensive stuff from RRL is because it's guaranteed quality, whereas more often than not stuff from Urban outfitters is not high quality. But there are cases like this where low end brands achieve the exact effect of a piece from a high end brand.

Stev Mike brings up a really interesting point. What's the difference between denim and chambray? To my knowledge denim is a twilled cloth and chambray is woven with crossed threads.

It's extremely hard for me to tell the difference in the picture of Steve above. I have to see the garment up close in person to see the subtlety in the thread.

I hope Stev Mike isn't just referring to the western style details because I believe McQueen is wearing a chambray western shirt.

Any takers willing to break it down for us?...

but by just washing it;

youre not really wearing "the fuck out of it",are you?

notice the difference in the fabric from the inside of the sleeve where it is rolled up to the outside of the garment.....you won't find that contrast on a chambray shirt.
also anyone with a true appreciation for vintage knows that shirt well(and the Claxton/McQueen photos) as a late 50's/early 60's Wrangler 27MW and can tell you it's denim.
go see the UO shirt in person. i did and it's a stinker.

Jake,

Quality post. I appreciate your gravitation towards timeless design. I identify with your sensibility.

I've had this thought circulating in my imagination for a while now, and I'd love to hear your perspective on it. I'd love to hear everyone's point of view as well.

The thought is around race, our experiences of being racialized, how that influences our worldview, and then how that worldview is actualized in design form. Let's first assume that fashion can be characterized as perception management and/or a vision come to material life. Everything begins in the mind's eye right? Let's also assume that our perceptions of "dressing well" have historically descended from the upper classes of a society's hierarchy, and have generally been dominated by white-eurocentric paradigms. If those two assumptions are valid, then, as we seek to "dress well," do our fashion choices reinforce those bourgeoisie perceptions and power structure? Or is good taste a universally transcendent sensibility that defies any particular worldview?

I ask because, as we can all admit, the most revered creators of fashion, and the various institutions that validate them, are disproportionately of European descent. Trust, I fully acknowledge that culture is fluid, that appropriation is common practice, and that sensibilities are informed by a great number of influences. I just wonder, if Marc Jacobs was of African descent, born and bred in a different context, would the designs be the same? If he had had dark brown skin, would he have ascended to the same position he is now? How would Afrocentric "high fashion" look different from Eurocentric "high fashion? Would it look any different at all?

Food for thought, I hope. What do you all think?

Best,

Chris

Respect to Stev Mike for dropping science. Are there any other differences between chambray and denim? I love it when true heads break it down...

AD, just by washing a garment no you are not wearing the fuck out of it. What I mean is much more philosophical... wear the garment, don't let the garment wear you. Steve McQueen is in total control of his shirt and it shows in the emotion of the photograph.

Chris, raises a really thought provoking idea. Personally I have much more of a reverence for the style of clothing than the fashion of clothing. The label, the house or the trend of fashion is not that interesting to me. My influence comes from classic clothing from the army, navy, work and sport.

I have much more of a respect for what the stylish individual brings to the garment. Through out time and this blog African-Americans have had just as great style if not better than us white kids. Great taste is great taste.

Thoughts?

Steve McQueen is wearing the shirt like anyone else. He was a good looking guy in great shape at the time of the photo, and wore a shirt that fit him properly. There's no personal element that he's bringing to shirt aside from the manner in which he rolled up the sleeve. Don't get me wrong, the muhfukka oozes steez, but I dont think this is the best photo to exemplify that.

That being said, Stev Mike is very correct - this is in fact a denim shirt which would/will age entirely different than a chambray shirt. The RRL one you copped is great - i almost picked up the same one (that's shirt's probably been a brand staple since the label's inception) a few years back but pussed out b/c of the $160 price tag. great item. can't say the same for the UO one, but i hope it works out.

RRL Chambray Shirt $190
Koto Chambray Shirt $39

Buy what you can afford and bring your own style to it.

i'm not arguing the notion that "fashion" implies style. you can swag the shit out of the UO joint or the RRL or some crazy ebay warfare vintage piece from 1942 that some idiot won for $8k. all i'm saying is that the SMQ photo doesn't really illustrate your point. however, the Ali photos you put up a few points back are like a textbook definition of bringing style to the table. spot-fucking-on...

Why do people talk shit about how "crappy" the koto chambray is without giving a reason why they dislike, besides the fact its from a store which is "unfashionable".

^^^MADE IN CHINA. reason enough??? if it isn't how about the pocket proportions, the cigarette pocket with the sealed bottom (one of the coolest features of this pocket style), the cut, shinny poly thread that doesn't pucker, the way it's styled in the photo shoot.....sorry don't tell me something is worth checking out while showing me those pictures from the UO website. don't get me wrong it's a great shirt for those riding the skinny jeans, massive red wings, plaid wool hunting jacket and tool bag trend.

ACL's recent Bruce Boyer interview post (originally from Ivy Style) touches on some of the points that Chris Mueller brought up re the social connotations of clothing. Good read...

http://www.ivy-style.com/bruce-almighty.html

The RRL shirt is made in China as well.

Michael always has the greatest finds on ACL and this interview is no exception. Respect, Mr. Williams...

http://acontinuouslean.com/

And thanks to JL for the link. Any other thoughts on the topic?

all garbstore is made in china as well

does something that is made in china automatically signify shitness. Or does it have to be made in usa,england, japan or italy to justify quality.

Your not wrong about style, you neither have it or know how to buy it. Typical chabbie who looks round the net then latches on.

the koto one fits terribly. the cut is way to boxy and the proportions are way off.

It kills me when people mention "made in china" as if were some cardinal sin. One would think that everything manufactured in Japan or USA is incapable of fault.

If it has a nice design with a mix of dark colors, then expect me to get it.

I am sometimes lost as to what color of clothes to wear.

I do like to wear clothes with dark color because it helps me look more lively and its perfect for my skin tone.

Having been a part of the Online Universal Work Marketing team for 4 months now, I’m thankful for my fellow team members who have patiently shown me the ropes along the way and made me feel welcome

latest trend

Lovely shirt of great colour and cloth and i am truely appreciate with that fine quality.If these clothes are booked online in cheaper rates then it will be the best way to improve our personality.

Tool Shirts

Its a "Wrangler Classic W-Rivet". (McQueen's one) I'm wearing one right now ;) Mother of all denim shirts. If you wanna get one, make sure it fits like a glove. Really tight. Otherwise it wont look good.
Denim shirts are absolutely underrated. One of the products that really pay off when you invest in quality.

This really is an great written article, Thanks for yet yet another insightful post, as continually!

when i was young, i have more and more money, but some times is lost. ~~~

I’m thankful for my fellow team members who have patiently shown me the ropes along the way and made me feel welcome

Way to stay positive and stick with something you love!

An excellent article to improve people's quality, enhance the knowledge of the grade, I really like this article, and thank you for sharing!

I liked this post very much as it has helped me a lot in my research and is quite interesting as well. Thank you for sharing this information with us.

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what denim shirt (that with the white zip) is wearing mcqueen in the thomas crown affair?

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