I know you're thinking the same thing... Do I cheat and buy a pair of selvedge denim pre-distressed with all the beautiful fading, whiskers, honeycombs, stains and denim patches? Or do I live in these raw ones for another two to five years until they get that aged wabi-sabi style?
I really want a pair with that beat-to-hell look but I'm not totally committed to the work it takes. Unfortunately, you can always kind of tell when the person wearing the jeans didn't do the actual wearing. There's always something a bit off. Know what I mean?... Any thoughts on the conundrum?...
The only acceptable pre-distressed denim is RRL. (Kapital looks cool too though) I have two pairs of ''Baltimore'' buckle backs, american made, japanese denim. I love em'. One has less holes then the other and I wear those more. I hear RRL's droppin' some RAW buckle backs soon, keep an eye out for those.
Posted by: Darren S Johnston | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 01:39 AM
Pre-distressed always kind of feels like cheating. My new standards are only 3 mos. old or so and still look pretty new. It's a catch-22 though-buy predistressed and you feel like a cheater. Buy raw and everyone knows you're a noob for like half a year. But you can't beat whiskers and rips you made, right?
Posted by: greenjeans | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 08:36 AM
45rpm has a custom distressing service: you wear a pair for a while to set the whiskers and creases to your body and then they send the jeans back to Japan to get distressed according to your own personal wear patterns. If you like pre-distressed jeans (I personally only wear raw) this is definitely the way to go. It's hella expensive though.
Posted by: Michael E. | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 10:10 AM
45rpm's custom distressing sounds amazing. I wonder what they do. I hear of people doing some pretty crazy things to expedite the process.
Posted by: Jake Davis | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 10:40 AM
While I only wear raw, I don't believe in there is such thing as "cheating". We all wear what looks good. Period. If you like pre-distressed, wear 'em proudly.
That said, I'm surprised that you don't have the patience to wear a pair of jeans for over a year. Your whole ethos (or at least that of this blog) seems to be an appreciation of things that are timeless and age well. Buying a new pair of jeans for every season seems to run counter to that premise, right?
Posted by: Jared | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 10:51 AM
I wear denim for over a year... It's the two-five year range and upkeep with repairs (blown out crotches) that's the hard part.
Posted by: Jake Davis | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 11:17 AM
The guy who does repairs at AG Adriano Goldschmied (on Greene St.) is reliable, cheap, and usually will have your shit done in a couple hours.
Posted by: Jared | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 12:48 PM
Simply, no.
Posted by: Dennis | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 01:05 PM
Blown out crotches sounds like the name of a West Hollywood punk band.
Posted by: David | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 05:20 PM
That's funny. Best comment ever!!!
Posted by: Jake Davis | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 05:27 PM
haha Thats great david
for distressed denim I'm a big fan of PRPS denim.
Posted by: One Man's Style | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 07:11 PM
I'm a big fan of thrift stores and goodwill stores, especially in the southern ct/ny area. check through the denim sections, there are usually some nice old levis and wranglers from back when they didnt make prewashed jeans, and breaking jeans in was the norm. while it's harder to find super contrasty fades, because washing was also the norm back then, they're very authentic and usually fit super comfy. with a little tailoring to get the fit right they look super nice and worn in, and the couple pairs I have only cost $7 each. Now, it's good to read up if you get really into it, as there are some levis models that are actually worth a ton of money that usually pop up in thrift stores. wouldn't want to pass any of those up.
Posted by: Eric | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 07:29 PM
I wouldn't trade the APC and Diors I've spent years beating into perfection for any pre-distressed out there. Sure it sucks at times when they are dark as night, but in the end you appreciate the hell out of them.
Buy the raw and live in them for a while. ride a bike if you got it...a lot
No one wants to be the guy with honeycombs on his calves
Posted by: Michael | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 09:59 PM
I loves my denim. I would love to take my raws from stiffies to worn-in beauties, but how can I possibly do this when 5 days a week I'm in business wear? Let's face it, I'm no worker on the western frontier.
Thus, I do cheat a bit. I won't go as far as paying for holes in my jeans, but I will buy some lightly distressed stuff.
Posted by: JB | Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 11:19 PM
ive bought at least 4-5 pairs of apc's, nudies, shipley and halmos raw denim with the expectation that ill finally do it and just wear the shit out of the jeans...but its just too time consuming and i hate the indigo shade. i just give up and stick with levis...
Posted by: sam | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 12:00 AM
I'm actually in month 7 with a pair of Levi's STF 501s. While not selvedge, the work is the same...
Posted by: Sam | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 03:01 AM
just buy one thing and stick w/ it. it'll pay off. i have a pair of 2+ year old samurais that have pretty much been my default jean when im not wearing chinos or cords, and they look fucking awesome. i'll have these for at least another 5 years and they'll just get better looking. crotch blowouts do suck, but i've found that when you "size-down" they tend to pop up more.
Posted by: jason | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 09:38 AM
I bought a pair of pre-worn APC New Standards at APC's New York store, and don't feel a bit of guilt. In fact, many of my friends are quite envious that I was able to find a pair of perfectly worn in jeans that fit perfectly. Head to the back room of the APC store and you should be able to find some greatness
Posted by: Corey | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 10:53 AM
can i start a service wearing in jeans for people? anyone that needs help give me a shout... only half kidding. that band name killed.
Posted by: james/10engines | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 02:33 PM
"No one wants to be the guy with honeycombs on his calves." So true...
Posted by: Jake Davis | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 04:43 PM
I'm all for breaking in a fresh, crispy pair of dry denim! There's something so satisfying about doing the work yourself.
I'm not opposed to pre-distressed jeans though; just as long as the processing has yielded an *authentic* vintage look!
Posted by: Mark C. | Friday, September 11, 2009 at 05:48 PM
APC used to do this line called Butler or something where someone would have actually worn the jeans out prior to them being sold. I think they're were pretty damn expensive, but you'd at least get the effect you were looking for. Not sure if they're still available or not.
http://blog.denimtherapy.com/2009/02/a-denim-resurrection-apc-butler-worn-out-series/
Posted by: Steven | Saturday, September 12, 2009 at 12:32 PM
I have 2 pairs of 3+ yr old APC's. They both look absolutely amazing but have not been worn for a few months given the blown crotches in both of them and me not wanting to deal with getting them fixed again. I wear apc's nearly every day and get a new pair once a year. I figure at some point I will get them all fixed up at once and have a chronological history of the last 5 years.
Posted by: TJ Parker | Saturday, September 12, 2009 at 12:52 PM
Technically I think the Butler series is still cheating. I'll have to check with my lawyer. LOL...
Posted by: Jake Davis | Saturday, September 12, 2009 at 02:21 PM
great and so true thread. what I fail to get is if the "sender" actually "cheat" and buy already beaten denim or take the time to wear them in? am refering to the 6 jeans on the image. cheers!
Posted by: adero | Sunday, September 13, 2009 at 08:06 AM
The APC butler series are the only acceptable ones
Posted by: holmes | Wednesday, September 16, 2009 at 12:11 AM
More than the crotch blowout, my pocket bag always rips out at the top. No fun.
Posted by: Rupert | Monday, September 21, 2009 at 12:57 AM
Slim fit denim pants looks always good for men. salvegde denim jeans are good but not all the time, there is an appropriate place to wear that kind of jeans.
-mikee-
Posted by: wholesale mens clothing | Monday, October 12, 2009 at 10:38 PM
I love the jeans are garments that never goes out of fashion, have been used for years and have never left the market by the dozens I have them and use them daily, I love the theme.
John L. Buchanan
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Tampa, FL 33607
Posted by: buy viagra | Thursday, May 27, 2010 at 03:55 PM
The faux pre-worn denim product is equivalent to the disposable razor. Both have their place when on the run from the law and you have to assume a new identity. Outside of that, neither will serve you well.
If that which we consume is an expression on who we are, the answer is simple. The disposable razor is either A) for the person who truly can't afford more or B) the cheap person who doesn't discern a difference. If cost is not a factor, do the work on your own and make the denim uniquely yours.
Posted by: keef@keef.tv | Sunday, November 28, 2010 at 12:59 PM
I love wearing distressed jeans when hanging out with friends. I have a pair of Levi's that has been with me for more than two years, and it is my absolute favorite. It fits just right and feels very comfortable.
Posted by: Lee Dove | Monday, February 20, 2012 at 07:54 AM