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Japan has always had a sort of mythological ethos for me. A Holy Land of sorts. For over a decade I would thumb through Japanese magazines and hear tales of my friends' trips, "Jake, you have to go." So when the opportunity finally presented itself to direct films in Tokyo for K-Swiss Japan I jumped at it.
It has taken me a couple of weeks to process the experience. So now I'll give you some insight into the trip. As superficial as this sounds I think some of the products I purchased say more about the culture than one would think. So here are the highlights as I'll try my best to shed some light...
Nanamica Newport Blazer
The label inside this blazer reads, "Everything is original. You see the stars in the night sky. You feel the wind when you move. Your body is energized by sunlight. Every day passes as usual. But now you are part of nature. Do not iron. Do not copy. From nature in JPN."
A blue double breasted blazer to the naked eye but when you start noticing the details it's far from that. The fabric is Pertex which is typically found in technical down jackets and sleeping bags. Each gold button is different. The 30D Pertex madras lining is actually printed patchwork. Nanamica is a line I was introduced to for the first time by visiting their Daikanyama shop. They are also the guys behind The North Face Purple Label.
The North Face Purple Label Medium Day Pack Para Flower Print
The North Face Purple Label Tote Bags
I brought back a lot of gifts for friends. Chris Black said he wanted some crazy shit... So I got him the floral backpack and has since been made fun of by small children on the streets of L.E.S. The North Face Purple Label is a license that is only available in Japan.
I got the more modest black tote for myself to bring back some goodies. The camoflauge pocket inside is a nice bonus. Honestly, I don't know how much I would like these if they were available stateside. I think some of the appeal is that you can only get them in Japan and therefore one of the lucky few to walk around with one back home.
United Arrows Beauty & Youth by Retoro Aloha Cap
United Arrows was described to me as The Gap of Japan. I personally think it's a lot better than The Gap. This cap grabbed my eye from the window display. The floral fabric is a standout and has been used for a few other great things I've seen this season.
New Balance Made In England 1500s
New Balance has a slightly different positioning in Tokyo. They're treated like luxury shoes placed next to the likes of Common Projects and Birkenstocks. Stores like Tomorrowland and Beams+ have an assortment of Made In USA and Made In England 993s, 1500s, and 998s. Which, ironically, are easier to find there, than stateside. I love grey New Balance with the small "N" so I had to have these.
Birkenstock Taupe Montanas
Birkenstock is another brand that has a lot reverence in Japan. Again treated more like a luxury shoe than a hippie dippie back of the store stepchild. One of my goals was to get another pair of Montanas while I was there. These were extremely easy to find. The mall a short distance from the Cerulean Tower had a wide assortment of colorways.
Beams+ Pre Organic Cotton Beanies
I wear beanies late into the Spring season. These Pre Organic Cotton beanies from Beams+ are some of the more interesting ones I've ever felt. The cotton is breathable but has a tough feel, which I love... Almost like straw that will get softer with age and wear. I purchased every color because I'm a crackhead I couldn't make a decision.
San Francisco By Seilin Melange Socks
Tabio Homme Paisley & Floral Socks
Japan's range of socks for men is pretty incredible. I think out of everything I bought, I endulged in socks the most. I purchased the full range of the color spectrum in melange from San Francisco by Seilin. And also got some pretty eclectic styles at Tabio which is devoted to making socks in Japan.
Danner Japan Slusher 3 Eyelets
One of those fascinating things about Japan is they have amazing American brand goods that we can't get in the USA. These Danner Japan Slusher 3 Eyelets are a great example of that. A unique take on a Bean Boot only available in Japan. I had my eye on the waxed cotton camouflage version but they were sold out. These are a nice alternative. Thanks to Eva and Danner for the love.
New Era Japan New York Yankees Dot Series Navy/White Dot
New Era Japan New York Yankees Tiger Camo Black Corduroy
New Era is another brand that is licensed in Japan that has some pretty interesting exclusives. While I was there I picked up the camo and polka dot in attempt to compete with Angelo Urrutia... Unfortunately, he always wins.
Most of the shops I went into were burning Nag Champa which brought me back to the nineties in New York City. But I noticed one of the Beams+ had an incredible scent. A while back my buddy Michael Raphael introduced me to Kuumba. And they had a wide selection of incense and room spray from them. The particular scent they were burning was Good Day. I brought back a couple packs.
Limited Edition Wasabi Kit Kats
No trip is complete without some treats. I brought back some limited edition boxes of Kit Kats for my friends to enjoy. I was informed that the airport would have every variety. Kit Kat makes region-specific flavors you can only buy in that specific location. I have to say there are some pretty varied flavors like cheesecake and soy sauce. My favorite is wasabi.
Overall I had an amazing time and have an even greater respect for Japanese culture. The level they are able to take the classics I love is beautiful. Their attention to detail, as well as their sensibility, is something you have to experience for yourself. Special thanks to Ryan Babenzien for showing me the ropes. Hopefully our films, which launch shortly, will help give you more perspective. In the mean time I thought I'd share some of my favorite purchases with you guys... Also expect a separate post on my favorite brand Kapital and other exclusives soon...
Natural Leather Hommage Nike Air Force One mip-01
Natural Leather Hommage Adidas Superstar mip-02
Natural Leather Hommage Vans Era mip-04
Natural Leather Hommage Martin Margiela mip-05
Sand Beige Tassel Loafer
Beige Moca Moca Moccasin
Natural Leather Slouchy Loafer
Assorted Leather Pot Bags / Envelopes A6
Natural Leather Pen / Coffee Bean Bags
As the Internet has grown and the blogosphere has become more expansive it's become harder to find new and interesting brands and products that you don't already know about or are postworthy here. There is almost too much information out there as is. So I've become hesistant to put product based posts together.
But when Angelo Urrutia of Nepenthes New York put me onto Hender Scheme I thought it was the perfect concept to spotlight. A Japanese brand reinventing the classics... Imagine your favorite sneaker, shoe or everyday tool redone in tonal premium raw leather or suede. I'm a big fan of the natural leather but almost every piece comes in dark brown and black as well. For Spring/Summer 2012 they've expanded on their brilliant Hommage collection. Consider this a nice little warm up to my Japan trip post coming next week...
Every season I look forward to the new Supreme release which gives a strong direction of the market. This year it came a week early and I was in Japan directing films at the time. I heard the lineups were more intense than ever before, wrapping all the way around the Lafayette block. I saw and heard about bits and pieces of the collection before the release, and was even given a couple things ahead of time. But I really love the way James (Jebbia) merchandises the store, so when I got back to New York I was really excited to physically check out what wasn't already sold out. And yes, there was still a queue of buyers over a week after the initial Spring 2012 release.
Simply stated, Supreme makes classics with a twist. If you look at the details you'll see the subtle nuances. Why I love the brand and the clothing so much is it's never over designed. They never really flex by adding a non-utilitarian detail but more by creating an interesting fabrication or reference. This season there are many classics that I'm really into with the Supreme touch...
Schott Leather Flight Jacket with floral lining
Suede Bomber with plaid lining
Taped Seam Coaches Jacket in Teal
You see, if you pay attention to the details then you start to understand, not only the humor, but the direction Supreme takes the market in without even really trying. And I don't mean not working hard. In fact, quite the opposite. They just do what they feel. And that's how they've become my generation's most important brand.
But if you look further into the pieces on a higher cultural level, which transcends skate, fashion, etc., then you start to see the brand how I see the brand. Of course I'm given a little insight into the design process and consciousness of the DNA that is Supreme by the designers and directors behind the line. As well as through the films we occasionally collaborate on.
But I objectively look at this stuff. I fucking love gear to a fault. I actually might have a serious problem. (Note to self). And I study it, much how one would study film or art. For better or worse that's how I look at most things. I have a certain respect for it so that's the energy I give back to it.
At moments it has very little to do with the actual clothing. The greats don't just put something out and hope it sells. They're in touch with something that is inexplicable, never tangible, and always on. Some call it a pulse, others call it cool, I simply call it Supreme. So where are we and where is the brand taking us?...
Field Jacket in Khaki African Camouflage with Enamel Pin
Four Pocket Safari Shirt in Camouflage
Snake Pullover
Camels Tee
Ikat Camp Cap
Arabic Logo Deck
Hermès Ceramic Tray
It's exotic, it's exploration, it's dangerous, it's militant, it's revolution, it's travel, it's youth... And has everything to do with the global world and nothing to do with the insular bubble that is downtown New York City... But at the same time it is so New York. It's everything that New York represents... The clashing of cultures, the discordance of economic classes, the aspiration of something better, the melting pot of a heterogeneous society. This isn't intellectualism of a brand. This is very real. And whether it's thought out in design strategy or "just happens" you can't deny its relevance. To simply call this "streetwear" and not significant cultural direction is laughable.
Maybe because there's no runway show during fashion week there's a false sense of insignificance. But these staples, these dialogue pieces, these items of the now, are the future of the youth and style. It's global. It's aware. It's power.
The epitomical genius of Supreme is taking something classic like a camp cap and making it in an ikat fabrication. Ikat might be the oldest form of worldly textile decoration. And exists way before the camp cap became a classic. Symbolic of status, wealth and prestige; it's the perfect Supreme dichotomy. And maybe it should just be understood as an interesting and colorful hat. That would definitely be the easy way out. But if you're reading this then you probably aren't interested in brushing the surface either.
And if we're talking interests, than the most interesting piece this season has absolutely nothing to do with clothing at all, rather a lack of clothing. And everything to do with thematic cultural significance...
Origin Mug
What does a French painting from 1866 have anything to do with "streetwear?" Everything... but it would be so unSupreme of me to explain it all to you.
